SAE Article: Wine, Parades, and Wine!

For those interested in living the experience of La Vendimia Wine Festival, feel free to read the following article at South American Explorer: Wine, Parades, and Wine

While just released this month (March 2010), I had written this piece 12 months ago when the wine festivities concluded in Mendoza. It is a brief narrative describing the overall experience for Tania and I (plus little Dallin in tow). From wine and fireworks to parades and pageants - this is La Vendimia at its best!

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Vineyards & Mountains with Imagine Argentina

panoramic view: click to enlarge

In mid-March, I had the true pleasure of greeting a travel group of 20 passengers eager to discover the wonders of Argentina. This specific trip, sponsored by The Wine Sellar & Brasserie of San Diego, and organized by Imagine Argentina and Grapevine Tours, proved to be a spectacular journey highlighting the elite vineyards of Mendoza, the dazzling tango of Buenos Aires, and the crashing cascades of Iguazú. After eight months of careful planning, we at last found ourselves together here in Argentina...and this was our excursion to Cerro Aconcagua - the tallest mountain peak in the Western Hemisphere:

The morning began with a peaceful visit to Bodega Ruca Malen, a modern establishment nestled below the majestic Andean peaks of Luján de Cuyo, dedicated to superior wine-making since 1998 and recognized for the following labels: Yauquén, Ruca Malén, and Kinién. Following a casual walk among the vines, under a brilliant blue sky, the group proceeded with a personal wine tasting session inside as conducted by residential expert, Carolina Macaya. Following a unique combination of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blends, we continued towards the Chilean border.

Past the abandoned tracks and train stations of the former Trans-Andean Railroad, and the raging waters of Rio Mendoza, we found ourselves winding through the vibrant and diverse formations of local Andean valleys. Wildlife was rare, though we did manage to spot one roaming guanaco in-between the stone tunnels of the railway. Upon arrival to Aconcagua National Park, a pleasant hike just a few meters up the trail led us to Laguna de Horcones, where we settled on the grassy slopes and enjoyed a delightful afternoon picnic...each couple sharing a basket filled with salads, bruschetta, and bottles of wine. In the distance, Aconcagua pierced the horizon, towering at a height of 22,840 feet above sea level.

As we returned towards the residential zone of Vistalba, we stretched our legs at the local craft market near Puente del Inca. This natural bridge, formed centuries ago through the intense interaction between hot springs and ice, was once the site of a popular thermal resort and train station. In addition to the healing powers supposedly provided by the sulfurous waters of Rio Vacas, the river offers unique souvenirs for tourists, ranging from crusted wine bottles to "golden" tennis shoes left in the water for a period of weeks. Charles Darwin was quite impressed with the phenomenon during his personal expedition to Mendoza years ago.

Imagine Argentina: La Vendimia Collection

Another parade has come and gone. After months of strategic preparation, the streets of Mendoza at last erupted in early March with blaring music and vibrant colors; galloping gauchos and beautiful reinas. This is the international wine festival of Mendoza...also known as La Vendimia. Here is our travel log:

The annual festivities begin with a raucous parade through downtown, celebrating a fruitful harvest...and rejoicing in local culture. Small children and grown adults frantically wave their hands in the air, begging the pageant queens of each passing float to share their "emblems" of the harvest. In return, grapes and gourds are soon tossed into the crowd, gathered up in makeshift baskets attached to broom handles. Laughter is contagious as desperate onlookers struggle to catch the goods, only to eventually squash some of the fruit below their feet. With a sense of pride, smiling sons and daughters run to their parents to show off their newly acquired gifts: cantaloupes, garlic heads, and even bags of oregano (or so I think). Dallin found his own success...as you will see below.

Native cowboys, both young and old, trot down the avenue atop their horses. Decorated soldiers march to the rhythm of the himno nacional. Glamorous dance groups move, twist, and entertain the crowd, causing a reaction of cheers and applause. Each queen represents her provincial department aboard an extravagant float...competing for the adoration of neighbors - and politicians - in order to be voted the official Reina de la Vendimia later that evening. Vamos Godoy Cruz! Sos hermosa!

Tonight, almost 40,000 people pack the outdoor theater inside San Martín Park - Teatro Griego Frank Romero Day. A brilliant and dazzling performance begins with singers, dancers, and queens of years past. Vice President Cobos is present - and greeted with a roar of cheers. I believe Presidenta Kirchner is also here - yet welcomed with thunderous boos.

Following two hours of entertainment - with third row tickets thanks to The Grapevine - all seventeen queens are called out and line up on stage. We listen as the ballots are read. Who will be this year's "first lady of wine"? The crowd is wild...with fans screaming and yelling in support of their neighborhood queen. Massive banners and posters are waved in the air as provincial departments are read aloud: "Luuuuuuján!! Godooooooy Cruz!! San Marrrrrrrtín!!" And the winner is...San Martín by a landslide! Well, at least Godoy Cruz took second place. We now enjoy an impressive display of fireworks at 12:30AM...and Dallin is still awake!

Time to head home, face the traffic, and crash in bed. As for the rest of the week...well, it is the annual wine festival. Salud!

Wordless Wednesday: Corks & Bottles

Restaurant Pick: La Tupiña

This blog has become a wonderful outlet for both Tania and I to discuss our life and share our moments. We do not openly market and/or promote businesses on this blog - however, there are special exceptions. I believe it is always necessary to recognize exceptional service when possible - especially when such service far exceeds your initial expectations.

In 2006, I returned to Argentina on business. I spent two weeks building contacts and friendships across the country - artists, managers, chefs, etc. While in Mendoza, I had the pleasure to visit La Tupiña - a unique bistro nestled below the majestic peaks of the Andes. After years of eager anticipation, I returned yesterday (2008) with three dear friends who have recently relocated to Argentina. What appears to be a quaint adobe cottage along a narrow gravel road is actually one of the finest dining experiences we have ever had. I use "experience" because the word "meal" does not suffice.

From downtown Mendoza, you must travel south along Ruta 40 before turning west towards Tupungato - a developed town nearly 100km from the provincial capital in the heart of Valle de Uco. Located just outside Tupungato (in Gualtallary), La Tupiña welcomes travelers for afternoon lunch (reservations a good idea).

La Tupiña signifies the black cauldron which rests inside over an open fire - a common gathering place for dear friends in the countryside. Upon arrival, you will be greeted with the warm hospitality of both cooks and servers, inviting you to join them around the cauldron as master chefs prepare fine h'orderves and appetizers before your eyes - roasted eggplant, empanadas criollas, grilled mozzarella with sundried tomato, and a "shot" of gourd soup. You are encouraged to mingle and ask questions as the chef clearly explains his choice of ingredients and methods of preparation.

After savoring the flavor of several distinct spices and herbs, you will return to the main dining area and unwind on a leather sofa, turning the pages of local wine books that sit before you. In just a few short minutes, a new round of h'orderves begins, each served with a gracious smile. A personal favorite: miniature bowl of soft yam served over ground beef and onion, sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar.


Your official table has now been prepared and you are invited to dine outdoors on the patio. Amidst a peaceful vineyard, and surrounded by towering poplars, you will now begin with the main course - vegetable canoles, roasted potatoes, and seasoned matambre (flank steak). Each and every dish is served with an insightful explanation.

As for desert, you will be treated with rice pudding and other sweet miniature concoctions. However, it is the soft sorbet inbetween that will not only cleanse your pallet, but delight your taste buds: strawberry with specks of black pepper + pear with a pinch of thyme.

Each course is paired with fine wine - burgundy Malbec, Cabernet, Merlot - all of which are carefully crafted inside Altus, a charming bodega (winery) located directly across the gravel road. As La Tupiña is part of the Altus establishment, you are encouraged to combine your culinary experience with a private tour conducted inside the winery - a staple activity of the local tourism industry.

*For my fellow non-wine drinkers, you will be happy to know they serve all Coca-Cola products...and a very pleasant lemonade :)

With such a peaceful rural setting, paired with the rustic elegance of the interior (dried flowers, vibrant gourds, warm paints of orange and yellow hues), La Tupiña captures both intimate ambience and cultural tradition.