Autumn in June

There is a small park behind Ave. Beltran where neighborhood kids play soccer, doggies do their business, and little boys play with leaves. Can you spot the dog ruining our photo shoot by urinating on a light pole? How rude!

Wordless Wednesday: Neighborhood Soccer Club

Wordless Wednesday: Got Meat?

Wordless Wednesday: Enjoying the plazas.

Smoke, Chalk, Art, and 5 GOALS!!!

So I just returned from a brief visit to Buenos Aires. No matter how many times I visit this metropolis, I still seem to discover something great and new during every trip. After visiting dear friends and conducting important business, I was able to enjoy a few pleasures (with Tania's permission). Unfortunately, Argentina's capital has been filled with thick smoke for the past week. Each year, farmers and campesinos burn their fields in preparation for a new season of crops. However, due to such dry conditions, these fires raged out of control and nearly 170,000 acres of land have been burned outside the city. Wind and rain have not saved the day, so the brown smoke, combined with overwhelming smog, has kept most tourists inside their hotels and nearby restaurants. Just yesterday, I saw several locals roaming the streets with paper masks. Due to the heavy smoke and poor visibility, several highways have been shut down following numerous accidents. Things should improve in the next week.

I'm sure many of you are familiar with British chalk artist Julian Beever. You might not know him by name, but I guarantee that you have received one of his famous emails in the past from a close friend or family member. Known worldwide for his sidewalk illustrations that challenge all visual perspectives, Telefónica and Movistar invited him to Buenos Aires for his latest project. For nearly 10 hours a day, 5 days in a row, Julian created a perceived crater in the sidewalk (along Diag. Roque Saenz Peña next to El Obelisco), filled with wildflowers and fire ants. Not only was he very kind, but he took several breaks to sign autographs.

I love museums. While I often suggest many museums to my clients, I rarely have time to enjoy the artwork myself. So, following a peaceful stroll through the trendy Palermo neighborhoods, I stopped by the magnificent MALBA art museum. Having studied Latin American Humanities in college, I was excited to finally see the original works of so many distinguished painters - Rivera, Kahlo, Botero, etc. However, I was most pleased with the temporary exhibit dedicated to the life and art of Tarsila do Amaral, from Sao Paulo, Brazil. I was very impressed with the museum - layout, overall design, variety of artists and styles (impressionism, modernism, etc). A true recommendation for all!

Lastly.....que goleada!!! I might be a fan of Boca, but when a dear business partner offers a free ticket to see River Plate play in Estadio Monumental, how are you going to turn that down (especially the honor of seeing Simeone and Ortega in person)? In need of at least a tie to stay in La Copa Libertadores, River came out in full force against Universidad San Martín of Perú. After 5 tremendous goals, 2 yellow cards, and 1,754 foul words screamed, River walked away with a dominant 5-o victory! Passion has a whole new meaning once you watch an Argentine soccer match, with Argentine fans, in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Fans do not boo - they whistle, hiss, and yell. Another true recommendation (though I am still a Boca fan)!

No More Paperwork - Please! (Dog Travel)

While this blog serves as an online public journal of our international adventure, it must also serve as a source of vital information for those relocating to Argentina. We don't see why we should keep such knowledge for ourselves - we hope others can learn from our experience.

Bella had it easy - well, accept for the four flights inside a kennel. But she didn't have to do her own paperwork! For anyone planning to bring a dog (or other pet) into the country, please consider the following guidelines:

1-Contact your airline and advise them that your dog will be traveling. Airlines require breed information, etc, to be registered in their reservation system. Even with approval, please know that your dog most likely will travel below cabin with the rest of passenger luggage. In fact, if an airline even allows animals in the cabin, the requirements are very strict: animal must fit inside a small kennel, must be able to stand and turn without touching sides of kennel, and kennel must fit below your seat. Yes, this limits your choice of animal to pretty much gerbils and hamsters.

2-Your dog must receive a complete veterinarian exam within 10 days of international departure. All vaccines must be current. The vet must sign an official certificate (with four carbon copies) declaring the dog suitable for international travel. *Make sure that a statement of temperature acclimation is written by the vet - for liability reasons, airlines require that all animals be acclimated to lower temperatures before travel!

3-The same vet certificate must be signed and "sealed" by your local USDA office. An official USDA vet will place his signature on the certificate, thus certifying the animal's health based on government regulations.

4-The certificate must now be translated into Spanish. The translation must then be notarized. Upon notarization, the translation must receive an "Apostille". This is a very important document which is accepted (and required) for international relations between the United States, Argentina, and several other nations (initiated under the Hague Convention of 1961). Such an "Apostille" is provided by your local Secretary of State or Lt. Governor's Office.

5-Buy a good kennel (must be "airline approved") and train your dog to get used to it. Bella thought it was a form of punishment every night! Be sure to have food, water, and blankets inside before the trip - and post all breed and owner information on the outside.

Of course, please keep in mind that there are many costs involved. While the documents are not very expensive, do expect to pay between U$150 to U$300 to travel with your pet. Yes, this is cheaper than a normal airline ticket, but it is still steep. Once you arrive into Argentina, pick up your pet (and kennel) at baggage claim, present the paperwork to the local vet at customs, pay a few pesos, and get on your way. Now, just find your dog some much needed water!

Family, Focus...and Strikes

Two months have passed since our return to Argentina. Progress and adaptation has come slowly, especially with the costs and extensive waiting periods described below - but we did finally get internet 37 days after our request was submitted! You learn to stick together in times like these - when you feel as if you are starting over again. We keep in touch with family via SKYPE, and we are blessed to receive Tania's parents in our home every 2 weeks (they live in San Juan - a 2.5 hour drive from Mendoza). Her father, a humble man of Mapuche origin, is determined to figure out how iPods work! We definitely enjoy their visits.

Our dear friends, here in Godoy Cruz, drive us out into the countryside often - Tunuyán, Luján, etc. The landscape is beautiful - crisp air, towering trees, endless vineyards of all sizes, and the majestic Andes always by your side (the peaks of which are now snow-capped). In turn, friends visit our home and watch movies on the projector (a "precious" item which arrived safely in our luggage, tightly wrapped in towels). We are absorbing all the experiences around us - we value this "cultural education", especially for our little boy. Our neighbors have been so kind - and did I mention the pizza place across the street? With 15 recipes for empanadas?

As for focus, we must remind ourselves that we are here for the experience, the journey, the pursuit of goals and aspirations. We are definitely not here for the flourishing economy and stability (which I will discuss below). The world was created and meant to be seen...not just as tourists. We figured now was the right time to change our environment for a period. Of course, Blockbuster and McDonalds are just a few blocks from our corner, but we prefer to steer away from the "American" experience - instead, we rent videos from the local kiosk and buy empanadas across the street (did I mention they have 15 different recipes?)

As we were packing our luggage, I was forced to leave behind my entire library of Latin American literature. Since Dallin was allowed to bring most of his books, I thought mommy would let me bring mine...I was wrong! I chose five books to survive - mostly based on personal improvement and leadership. The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People has been a guide for us here in Argentina. We are thinking positive and we are proactive! Even better, the Spanish translation is not found here, so I am sharing each profound principle with local business owners and friends (no - not as a sales pitch, but as free advice to break through local barriers).

Let's talk strikes. Due to higher export taxes placed upon farmers, many workers from the agricultural sector have decided to go on strike this month and protest such policies. Interstates are blocked with stones and fallen trees (to prevent truck routes), while disgruntled workers and residents fill the plazas of Buenos Aires to protest, banging on pots and pans to make their anger clear. Presidenta Kirchner tried to address the topic this week, but was met with hisses and boos. She refuses to negotiate until the strike is lifted - so far, neither side has made a move. Milk is no longer available in Mendoza, yogurt is scarce, meat has nearly disappeared (in Argentina of all places!), and chicken and vegetables have increased nearly 200% to 300% in price. Powder milk and noodles are becoming essential food groups, though not as bad as Buenos Aires.

This brings me back to the beginning...as a family, you learn to stick together in times like these. But did I mention the place across the street, with 15 different empanada recipes?

Too Close for Comfort?

Well, after waiting several weeks for all utilities to be installed, we can finally leave our home as a family and enjoy the many local attractions offered in Mendoza. For Dallin's sake (or maybe more for daddy's entertainment), we went to the local zoo located inside Parque San Martin.

The zoo is very organized with winding walkways that ascend into the hills. We were impressed with how clean the entire zoo really is, and despite the overwhelming odor of 200 red-butt baboons screaming in a cage, we were quite pleased.

However, safety precautions are much different here. Only a chain-linked fence separates you from the tigers and lions. Only a very low wall separates you from the bulls and bears. And as for the elephants... The gate door to the elephant habitat was open, and as Wade loves animals, and a good dare, he entered to take pictures. To his surprise, the African Elephant was very calm - he was able to pet her trunk (before she blew water in his face). We do not recall such adventures in Utah. Dallin enjoyed our little Argentine safari, although he seemed most intrigued by the stray cats roaming the premises (domesticated cats, not panthers).

Our journey continues...and even the ñandú seems surprised.

A Young Gaucha in Training

One of our favorite photographs. This young girl, along with hundreds of children, participated in La Vendimia parade here in Mendoza (described below). For those familiar with Argentina, you will recognize this image as a traditional symbol of local culture and heritage.

La Vendimia 2008 - La Alegría Te Invade

Another Vendimia has come and gone here in the beautiful province of Mendoza. With special performances by Mercedes Sosa and other celebrity figures, this year´s festivites brought thousands of international travelers once again. For those not familiar, La Vendimia is the annual wine festival of Argentina. During the first week of every March, Mendoza (now one of the Eight World Wine Capitals) plays host to endless parades, concerts, and wine tasting! Hotels are booked nearly a year in advance, and even then the prices are steep!

This was our first Vendimia to celebrate as a family. Not wine drinkers, we decided to stick to the parades. In addition to the traditional dancers and gauchos, the parade is designed to display the beautiful reinas (pageant queens) that hail from each provincial department - Las Heras, Godoy Cruz, Tupungato, etc. Waving to the crowds below, these stunning young women proudly represent their home and their community. Brilliant lights, vibrant floats, and pulsating music permeate the city throughout the weekend. Several youth gather in tight groups to greet the passing floats, each holding a handmade basket to catch those treats thrown below to the crowd. While not Mardi Gras in any sense, the reinas and their escorts toss grapes, apples, and garlic into the crowd - emblems of the local harvest. A massive honeydew melon nearly grazed Dallin´s head. And yes, I did see a free bottle of Malbec up for grabs!

During the closing ceremonies inside Teatro Romero late Saturday night, the crowd erupted in applause to perhaps the finest performance of the week - tango on water. Professional tango dancers twirled in passion over a shallow fountain pool on stage. Excelente!

Our Journey to Argentina....One Month Later

No, we still cannot believe we are here. And no, this has not been an easy transition despite our lengthy preparations and previous experiences. We left home (Utah) on January 31st. Nothing is more emotional nor stressful than to say goodbye to your home, your family, your friends, your comforts and your routines. While we felt we had everything in control, Tania and I found ourselves still packing at 4:30AM, just a few hours before our departure from Salt Lake City Airport. We wanted to sleep, but we could not, and we just kept packing and packing. While many precious things were left behind in storage, we were able to bring many things with us - clothes, computer hardware, toys and books (for the two kids - Dallin and Bella). With eight overweight suitcases in hand, plus a large dog kennel, we embarked on our journey to the Argentine Republic. Yes, I personally still have vivid nightmare of the phrase excess baggage fees.

Following four adventurous flights, we arrived to Mendoza at last. We have been running around ever since then, so now we are sharing our experiences one month later. Overall, the family is adjusting quite well. Dallin is drinking multi-flavored soy juices and the infamous milk in a box, while Bella continues to be the star here in the city. Boston Terriers are not common here, so many people have stopped us to take pictures with Bella. Dallin is enjoying this brief rest from the spotlight. Both are pleased with their new diet - empanadas and steak.

Finding a place to live was a cruel process. According to some, Mendoza has a provincial law prohibiting pets from all apartment buildings. Since we were not ready for a house, we really felt nervous in the beginning. We spoke with several inmobiliarias (real estate offices), but nobody was able to help us. Often times, we were told ´´the property you want just sold this morning - sorry about that´´. Plus, to complicate things further, we did not have a garantía (renters guarantee). Basically, this is proof of income, or some other evidence of reliability, that can be shown in order to gain trust from a landlord or building owner. Not having any such documents for Argentina, this proved to be quite an ordeal. Even locals have problems securing apartments....and we are considered foreigners! Finally, we found a real estate office (Ruggiero Propiedades) and eventually found our apartment - a brand new building located in Godoy Cruz just outside Mendoza Centro. Since it is brand new, and there are few tenants, dogs are allowed by the owner. As for our garantía, we had to pay 6 months of rent up front before signing the contract. After 8 anxious nights in a hotel, and money flowing down the drain, we finally moved in and began to build our new home away from home.

*There is a spa and beauty salon located right below us (several boutique shops on the main level). A full hour Hawaiian Massage is only U$13.00 - this was one of my gifts for my 28th birthday!

There are still some plumbing and electrical details to fix, but we have accepted a common practice here - ask for something multiple times, and it will get done 10 to 20 days later. Perfect example: internet and phone lines. Since Telefonica has a near monopoly over communication systems here in Argentina, they can do as they please. Once you request your lines to be installed (these do not come standard with new buildings), then you must wait 20 to 30 days for actual installation. If a worker never comes, you are then asked to simply return to Telefonica and submit your request again. Yes, patience is a virtue one must have.

Tania and I are still discovering our purposes here. It is a joy to be closer to her family, but we are also excited to discover what else this experience has in store for us. I have some incredible ideas regarding work and business projects. I have met some amazing people who believe in these ideas - I just want to put them to work. Tania and I do believe in miracles. I do believe that all things happen in their due time. We will share this special experience with you:

As many of you know, Tania applied for her US citizenship back in July (right before the process fees increased). Such a process usually lasts 3 to 6 months, but because of so many applications turned in at once, the process became an ordeal of 12 to 18 months. We were nervous about leaving for Argentina knowing that the trip, and especially residence abroad, would place her status at risk here in the United States. We contacted the office of Senator Hatch in January. We met the most wonderful case worker and she began to assist us right away. After two weeks of emails and phone calls to everyone possible, Tania at last received her appointment with the immigration office in Salt Lake City. In a private ceremony, Tania was interviewed, tested, and sworn in as a US citizen on January 30th - only 14 hours before our international departure.

Many such blessings have been received here in Argentina, as well. This is such a beautiful country and the people are wonderful. Everyone is willing to be your friend, ready to help you with open arms within just a few minutes of conversation. This is something that impressed me 9 years ago when I first moved to Argentina as a missionary for The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. We continue to hope for the best, and at the same time, we wish success and happiness upon our dear friends and family back in the United States. Un fuerte abrazo!